When we describe a city as having “style,” we are usually thinking in terms of its unique characteristics, the subtle specialties that set it apart and a particular charm that shines amongst the others. For some reason this definition is commonly reserved for the likes of Paris, London or New York, hardly beach cities in Mexico. Well, I think it’s time to broaden the scope because Puerto Vallarta definitely has style, and lots of it.
   The basic facts are undeniable. This is Mexico’s most popular Pacific Coast destination complete with crystal blue water, picture perfect sunsets, fabulous beaches and stunning world-class resorts. Keeping this in mind I, like most first-timers to Vallarta (as the locals call it), was only looking as far as a great tan and some margaritas. However, from the moment I glanced out the window as the plane approached the airport, I had a different perspective of what a Mexican resort town should be. And I would soon discover that it’s what lies beneath the surface here that makes Puerto Vallarta truly extraordinary.
   The overall lay of the land flying into Puerto Vallarta is the first surprise. From the air it’s possible to get a sweeping view and a sense of the magnitude of the natural environment that is such an intricate part of Vallarta’s history, culture and development. The lush tropical jungle landscape of the towering Sierra Madre Mountains as they roll to the shores of the colossal Bahia de Banderas (Banderas Bay) is breathtaking. Seeing all this comprehensively from above, it is also easy to understand how some of Vallarta’s most impressive beaches are only accessible by boat. Gazing down I was so taken by the visual beauty of the scenery that I had to refocus to find the hotels. And there they were, lining the seaside in all shapes and sizes just waiting for their guests to arrive.
   The airport is here is small, but the warm welcome will more than compensate for any lack of modernization. Usually the hotels send representatives to help you find your way, but the taxi drivers are equally helpful. The choices of lodging in Puerto Vallarta are virtually limitless. Whether it is a high rise on the beach, a big name favorite at the Marina Vallarta, a hillside villa, an all-inclusive at Nuevo Vallarta (New Vallarta) or a quaint Bed and Breakfast in Viejo Vallarta (Old Vallarta), you will find the kindness of the people overwhelming. When they began to explain all the things to do and see in Vallarta, I saw their faces brighten, I heard pride in their voices and I could actually feel the love they have for their city. All of a sudden sitting on the beach or by the pool at my hotel sipping my margarita held less appeal.  Sure it’s always a great idea on a Mexican vacation, but understanding the real magic of Puerto Vallarta and experiencing what it has to offer sounded like a much more enticing plan.
   My first stop was the downtown area known as Viejo Vallarta.  Much the same as it has been for hundreds of years, this bustling area is the focal point of the local culture, cuisine and nightlife. The Huichol Indians (indigenous to the area) still sell their wares in the colorful marketplaces and keep the spirit of the past alive. Mariachi music fills the ocean air and there is a deep sense of tradition.  Cobblestone streets and white washed buildings with red tile roofs are punctuated with bougainvillea and flower covered balconies. Romance and charm are everywhere. Marvelous art galleries and eclectic shops add to the mix and give Vallarta its own distinctive cultural flair.  I finally concluded this must be the San Francisco of Mexico!
   As I explored the city, I picked up as many brochures as I could find only to discover that it would take many more visits to Vallarta to even scratch the surface of the activities here. The geographic diversity of the region makes ecology here a key concern. In addition to the standard deep-sea fishing and scuba diving possibilities, I was intrigued by the idea of other not-so-obvious local adventures. The options are incredible from swimming with dolphins, hiking to a secluded jungle waterfall and mountain bike riding near tree-lined rivers to exotic birdwatching, observing nesting sea turtles*, and the wondrous experience of seeing hundreds of humpback whales as they make their winter home in Banderas Bay. From my perspective, Puerto Vallarta comes very close to being all things to all visitors.
   Thrilled by what I learned about my new favorite beach destination, I decided to have that margarita and contemplate my return trip. I took a stroll along the Malecon (the seaside walk) and found one of Vallarta’s many incredible restaurants and bars with an ideal view of the ocean. There is something inherently special about a Mexican sunset. Maybe it’s the brilliant contrast of the sand and the sea as the orange and yellow hue slip into the horizon. Maybe it’s just the sensation of complete relaxation. Either way, I will never get tired of the perfect end to a perfect day in a paradise like this. A sunset on the pacific coast of Mexico is without question one of life’s true pleasures. In fact, as it turns out, Puerto Vallarta is one of life’s true pleasures too.